Kingston, NY: Touring Ulster County’s Cosmopolitan City.

Aerial view of Yonkers, with a historic bridge crossing the river, surrounded by lush greenery. The town showcases a blend of old and modern architecture, its streets winding toward distant hills beneath a partly cloudy sky.
Editor’s Note: New York by Rail updated this May 2023 blog experience to include current information.
KINGSTON, NY:
Touring Ulster County’s Cosmopolitan Center
By Olivia Abel

Everyone focuses on something different when you mention Ulster County, NY. Some people coo: “Oh, the stone houses.” Others immediately think about the county’s stunning natural beauty. The Shawangunk Ridge, home of world-class rock climbing and Minnewaska State Park, attracts a steady stream of adventure junkies from New York City and beyond. Still others love the funky little towns and focus on farm-fresh food. Me? I love it all, but often think of the castle-like Mohonk Mountain House resort as the epitome of Ulster County cool. 

And then there is Kingston— the county’s only city, nestled on the banks of the Hudson River 90 miles north of New York City. People are wildly divided over what Kingston is all about, too. Three distinct neighborhoods—the historic uptown Stockade district; the Midtown arts district and the Downtown Rondout waterfront area—are so widely different it is sometimes hard to imagine they are in the same country, let alone the same upstate city. But they all come together in a glorious mix of history and hip happenings and places.

A historic, red-brick building with white trim and ornate architectural details stands at a Yonkers street corner under a cloudy sky. The building signage reads MERMON. A small tree and lampposts line the sidewalk.
Historic Uptown Stockade District
A vibrant mural on a brick wall in Yonkers depicts a woman in a flowing blue dress, reaching upward with geometric and celestial patterns surrounding her. She carries a child on her back, set against a twilight sky.
Midtown Arts District
A scenic riverside view in Yonkers features a marina with several docked boats in the foreground. In the background, colorful buildings and lush green trees adorn a hill, with a small park and gazebo nestled near the water.
Downtown Rondout Waterfront Area

I started my day uptown. A quick word to the wise: bring quarters—and lots of them—if you want to park on these cute cobblestoned streets. The Kingston Stockade National Historic District, comprising eight blocks, is the original site of the mid-17th century Dutch settlement of Wiltwyck. While the walls that protected the Dutch from the Esopus Native Americans are long gone, today it is bustling old city with a touch of European flair.

The most important year in Kingston’s history is 1777; This is when the city became the first capital of New York State. The state constitution was ratified on April 20 and the first governor, George Clinton, was sworn in on July 30, 1777. But on October 13, most of the city was burned to the ground by the British troops who were advancing up the Hudson River.

A man in historical attire, including a tricorne hat, is mounted on a brown horse in front of a stone and brick building with a shingled roof. This picturesque scene unfolds in Yonkers, set against a backdrop of grassy areas peppered with bushes and trees.
Senate House State Historic Site

I’ve walked past the Senate House State Historic Site many times, but this time I decided to take a tour. The $7 ticket included admission to a small museum. Parts of the actual Senate House date back to 1676 and you can tour several rooms. I always love old Dutch kitchens: the massive fire place on the floor … the oversized kitchen “utensils.” Our cheery guide filled us in on all sorts of fun history from . Short and sweet—the tour took about 20-25 minutes— I highly recommend stopping at the Senate House to get your bearings before rambling around the rest of the Stockade.  

I wandered past “The Four Corners.” This is the only intersection in the U.S.—at the crossroads of John and Crown streets— where 18th century houses stand on all four corners. But the Old Dutch Church is the grand centerpiece of the neighborhood. Originally founded in 1659, the current structure was built in 1852. I’ve attended a services here in the past and remember oogling the oversized Tiffany stained-glass window. The church was locked on this Friday morning, but I enjoyed rambling around the graveyard and noted several families with young children eating at several of the picnic tables.

The Yonkers church interior boasts vaulted ceilings, arched windows, and ornate columns. A red carpet flows down the aisle to the altar, while stained glass windows and an organ grace the back. The pews sit patiently empty, awaiting congregation.
Old Dutch Church

Next, I stopped by the Volunteer Fireman’s Hall and Museum. Opened in 1982, this all volunteer organization does a nice job of preserving the county firefighter history in the original Wiltwyck Fire Station. Trustee Christine Bruce showed me around and assured me that the three vintage fire trucks we looked at “still run just fine.” She was particularly excited to show off the newly restored statue of Chief Weber, who ran the Fire Station for several decades in the early 20th century.

A vintage red fire truck is parked in a Yonkers garage, boasting a New York license plate, round headlights, and a prominent front grille. Surrounded by diverse firefighting equipment, it stands proudly with a banner and board displayed on the wall behind it.
Vintage Fire Truck
An elderly woman in a red shirt and an elderly man in a checkered shirt stand smiling next to a vintage red fire truck inside the Yonkers fire station. The man holds a broom, while a list of names is visible on the wall in the background.
Fireman's Hall Trustee Christine Bruce
and President Billy Knowles.
A vintage Yonkers firefighter uniform is displayed on a mannequin, complete with a helmet and oxygen mask. The exhibit is surrounded by historical photos and banners, with a large bell and an antique fire engine in the background.
Fireman's Hall Exhibit

I was starving at this point, and I just happened to wander past the adorable Lunchbox, which bills itself as “Ulster County’s Smallest Restaurant.” Perhaps the word restaurant is overstating matters—it’s actually walk-up window with two tiny tables outside. Co-owner and chef Sean Miller does it all, sticking his head out to chat with a steady stream of tourists and regulars. “It’s getting warm out there,” he told me. “The people need a cold soup. They need my gazpacho.” And indeed, several customers seemed almost giddy to realize that the cold vegetable soup was on the menu. A new menu is posted daily, featuring a variety of soups, salads, sandwiches and baked goods. The Lunchbox is open from 11-4 on weekdays. Across the street is Le Canard Enchaine, Kingston’s celebrated French bistro. Specialities include garlic snails, duck confit and the onion soup. I’ve dined here, and ooh la la, I can ensure that the atmosphere rates just as highly as the food. In need of a sweet treat, I was delighted to find Sweet Maresa’s bakery on Wall Street,  spanking clean with beautifully-decorated baked goods. The Macaroon is front and center (and oh so colorful) here, but I happily opted for a chunky walnut and chocolate chip cookie. 

A man stands at the window of Yonkers own The Lunchbox food stand, which boasts a green awning and a menu displayed. The counter is lined with various snacks and bottled beverages.
Sean Miller, Lunchbox
Dimly lit Yonkers restaurant interior featuring elegantly set tables with white tablecloths and cushioned chairs. Warm lighting and framed art create a cozy atmosphere, with visible dining areas in the background.
Le Canard Enchaine

Locals are buzzing about Chleo, a new wine bar that opened earlier this year on the corner of John and Fair streets. The global wine list is enhanced with an inventive, locally-sourced menu; food is prepared over an open fire.

Midtown Kingston was once the citys thriving business hub and still retains its industrial feel. While visitors have long gone to the popular UPAC (the Ulster Performing Arts Center), a grand show palacewith 1500 seats, the rest of the neighborhood is starting to fill in with hip restaurants and bars. I stopped by Dear Kingston, a new neighborhood craft beer bar, opened by Eric Sturniolo, a home brewer and former beer blogger. I plopped myself at the bar, ordered an IPA and a plate of pierogis and took in the scene: moms with small children, a pair of heavily tattooed bikers, a couple in their 70s. Everybody fit in. A vast, all-American beer selection, with 14 rotating taps going at all times, should please even the pickiest beer snob, while the  large, sparse  backyard with picnic tables and corn hole is helping Sturniolo achieve his beer gardendream.  

Cozy, modern bar interior in Yonkers features a wooden counter and stools, with bottles displayed on shelves. The ceiling is adorned with dried flowers, while soft lighting casts a warm atmosphere. A large window on the right ensures plenty of natural light.
Chloe Wine Bar
A grand theater in Yonkers boasts ornate architecture with rows of wooden seats and a large stage adorned with red curtains. The intricately decorated ceiling and large speakers flanking the stage create a classic and elegant atmosphere.
UPAC (Ulster County Performing Arts Center)
A row of diverse beers in various colors and glass sizes sits on a wooden board in front of a wall-mounted tap system with multiple faucets, showcasing Yonkers’ finest brews. Shelves beneath hold an assortment of empty glassware.
Dear Kingston

Dear Kingston is situated just steps from the Linear Park—a planned 0.8-mile asphalt pedestrian/bike trail along the abandoned Ulster & Delaware Railroad Corridor. When completed in 2024, the Linear Park will connect with the Empire State Trail. 

In the late afternoon I headed downtown—to the charming region situated on the Rondout Creek. When the Delaware and Hudson Canal was built in 1828 to help ship coal from Pennsylvania and bluestone from the Catskills, the area burst with industry. Today, small boutiques and eateries have opened in the old buildings along the hilly streets. (I snagged a nice pair of earring for $12 at the Next Boutique, which has survived for almost 20 years in the Rondout.) I had great fun checking out the Hudson River Maritime Museum.  You may want to also opt for the two-hour tour on SOLARIS, the museum’s solar-powered boat. (Buying a boat tickets gives you free museum admission.) The boat heads out to the 1915 brick Rondout Lighthouse, the last of three lighthouses marking the entrance to the Rondout Creek. Still fully operational as a navigational light, the Rondout is one of only seven lighthouses remaining on the Hudson River. 

Rondout Lighthouse

There are multiple dining options on the Rondout. The sprawling Mariner’s Harbor has been serving up seafood for more than three decades; my favorite special is $1.50 oysters on Thursdays. Serving up Southern favorites, Ole Savannah is housed in an oversized building that was once used to build and fix boats. Ask for a table overlooking the creek.

Enjoying all of Kingston in a single day is almost impossible. So I highly recommend an overnight at Hutton Brickyards Retreat & Spa. Like so many things in Kingston, this new resort—fashioned out of the crumbling remains of an old brick factory,  is both fresh and fascinating. A unique, sprawling complex on the Hudson River, there are multiple lodging options—from sweet little cabins to a room in a restored mansion. Public brunch service started in May 2023.

In a Yonkers park, the large black and red tugboat Mathilda stands proudly on display. Its tall smokestack, adorned with white and red stripes, rises against a clear blue sky dotted with a few clouds, elevated majestically on sturdy supports.
Hudson River Maritime Museum
A lighthouse sits on a rocky shoreline at sunset, with a pink and purple sky reflecting on the calm waters near Yonkers. Green navigation lights twinkle in the distance, and dark hills line the horizon.
Rondout Lighthouse
Wooden chairs on a grassy area in Yonkers overlook a large, rusted industrial crane by the waterfront. A nearby building with a dark roof is partially visible. The scene combines natural and industrial elements under an overcast sky.
Hutton Brickyards Retreat & Spa
TAKE AMTRAK TO KINGSTON

The City of Kingston is easily accessible by taking Amtrak to the Rhinecliff Station. Take advantage of the See New York and Save 15% discount. 

Kingston is a 21-mile drive from the Rhinecliff Station. Pick up your reserved #NYTRAIN Enterprise Rent-a-Car right at the Rhinecliff-Kingston Station. Click here to reserve your car or call the Rhinecliff-Kingston office today at: 845-336-4700.