For more than 30 years, I have been hiking, camping, swimming and traversing the Catskill Mountains in New York’s majestic Hudson Valley.
I don’t have a big ego, but I will say with confidence that I know those mountains, main roads that wind and climb to reveal incredible vistas, and back roads that lead to all kinds of hidden gems, charming towns with great places to eat and shop, as well as anybody. So with my years of accumulated knowledge from backpacking trips to the land of Rip Van Winkle, I feel safe, secure and emboldened whenever I head to the Great Northern Catskills of Greene County.
So you can imagine how excited I was to embark on a writing assignment for New York By Rail that took me to the Great Northern Catskills of Greene County. No, I wouldn’t need my headlamp, backpack or sleeping bag, because I was able to take Amtrak’s Adirondack line to Hudson Station to those Greene County sweet spots where the Catskills seemingly surround you on all sides. That mountain range is so immediate and carries such a sense of urgency that you almost believe the peaks could grow arms, pick you up and give you a hug.
The Catskills are typically all about sights and sounds for me.
But on this recent visit for my New York By Rail writing gig, it was the olfactory senses that steered the ship and commanded the most attention during my visit.
Where to Eat in Greene County
The first stop on my visit to the Great Northern Catskills was Riedlbauer’s Resort, a German/American family resort nestled away in Round Top, deep in the heart of the lush Catskill Mountains.
I’ve never been to Germany, but the architecture, design and names of this resort’s multiple buildings—Alpenhaus, Annex, Chalet, Cottage, Jagermeister Haus, and Foerster Haus—certainly put me in the mood for Oktoberfest. I checked in at about 10 a.m. on a recent Saturday, then hit the high road for a Greene County adventure. I later returned, freshened up and headed for Nussy’s Bier Garten on the resort grounds for Nussy’s Oktoberfest 2.0.
I’m still trying to wrap my head around what happened next.
I closed the door to my room, stepped out on the deck and was consumed by the savory and escalating aroma of bratwurst, bauernwurst and schnitzel. I felt like a wave had hit me and struggled for a moment to maintain my balance. My mouth was watering—from an aroma, the source of which eluded me. It was all so—delightful.
I headed for an outdoor flight of stairs, and as I ascended, I could hear the thump-thump-thump of what my late father would call an oom-pah-pah band. I was stoked. Nussy’s Bier Garten was going to be great. I could feel it, smell it and hear it. And, yes, it was.
More than a hundred revelers confirmed what I was anticipating. This was the spot to be on a Saturday in the Great Northern Catskills. The long line at the eats window confirmed everything I was thinking about the aroma of the food.
As I stood in line, I heard the sizzle of the grill, admired the passion of the cooks and marveled at the rush-rush-rush of it all.
And then it arrived. The most delectable, delicious, inspiring, rewarding and gratifying sauerbraten I have ever eaten in my long life of eating various and sundry sauerbraten. I slathered some mustard on that bad boy and paused just long enough to devour the accompanying sauerkraut and potato salad. I finished it all and sat back in my chair. I looked around me and declared that all was well.
Other than food cooked by my wife, sisters, and my late mother, I have never enjoyed a meal more than I did at Nussy’s.
I was so blown away by my dinner at Riedlbauers, that I couldn’t wait for breakfast.
I woke up and headed out of my lodging the next morning and, BOOM! I was once again met with an intoxicating aroma. This time it was bacon and just like the smell of sauerbraten, it called to me like the sirens beckoned Ulysses. I headed to the dining room and was served right away from a robust menu offered to all of theguests.
My server returned with a breakfast that brought to mind one word—lumberjack. This meal was hearty, generous, tasty and fulfilling. How does French toast, white toast, eggs, tea, a slab of butter, syrup-ey syrup and, yes, of course, crispy, delicious, life-changing bacon sound?
That breakfast left me feeling like I could conquer the world, or, at least, the Great Northern Catskills.
Leveling my culinary world in a much different but no less delicious manner were the Voodoo Balls served at Hunter Mountain Brewery in Hunter, the community that is home to Hunter Mountain Resort and all that glorious skiing.
How do four bacon-wrapped meatballs “draped” in the brewery’s voodoo sauce sound? Let me tell you. It sounded good, looked good, and, giddy up, they tasted good. Complementing the delectable taste of the meatballs was the brewery’s outdoor deck, with sweeping views of the Hunter Mountain ski runs and the surrounding Catskill Mountains, and the friendly vibe of the brewery staff and scene.
My head was spinning as I was three-for-three on delicious dining experiences in the Great Northern Catskills that weekend. There was no doubt in my mind what my next move would be. I was off to a Catskills Mountain landmark, a timeless destination, a market, a general store and a hip spot for Catskill Mountain devotees that serves as a gateway from the flatlands to the peaks.
Circle W Market in Palenville celebrates the rich history of the Catskill Mountains, its people and the passion it inspires. Along with a lot of character and unassuming nature, Circle W serves great food.
On my recent trip to Palenville, the Circle W menu had me at horseradish. That’s right, I opted for a sandwich that restored my faith in humanity—The Tannery. Roast beef? Check. Smoked gouda? Check. Caramelized onions & house-made horseradish mayo on a ciabatta? Check! Check! Check!
My initial plan was to save the sandwich for when I arrived at my next destination. But I made the mistake of opening the bag in the car, sticking my nose in like a horse at a trough, and inhaling. That was fatal. I told myself I’ll take a couple of bites of the sandwich. Then I ate a whole half. Then, well, you can see how this went. So, that was a car ride—and a sandwich—I won’t soon forget.
Let me say that you really haven’t had the authentic Great Northern Catskills of Greene County experience until you’ve wiped excess Circle W horseradish mayo off your chin.
What to do in Greene County
Let me be very clear about one thing. Greene County knows how to make the most of a beautiful Saturday with comfortable temperatures, clear skies and sunshine that will not quit. The Great Northern Catskills also knows how to make this guy feel very welcome.
My first stop after checking in at Riedlbauer’s was Coxsackie, a charming village on the Hudson River with a vast state park on the shore. The occasion was the Coxsackie Riverside Festival. Civic pride, community spirit, dancing witches, live music, oversized bubble-making and a relaxed vibe shaped this event, which was held in easily one of the most charming towns in the Hudson Valley—or maybe the state.
This gig generated a real buzz, but gave me the freedom to move at my own pace. Thanks, Coxsackie. I’ll be back soon.
I headed south to my next stop, the Skywalk Arts Festival in Catskill, which took place in one of THE coolest parks I will ever check out in my life.
But first things first.
I was very glad to once again travel from Coxsackie to Catskill by way of Route 385. The Catskills can be viewed to the west for most of the ride, and combined with the fields and the vintage houses, make for quite the travelscape. Let me also add that Route 385 illustrates in fine form how the Catskills, just like a good friend, are pretty much always there for you—certainly when you need them.
My destination was the western approach to the Hudson River Skywalk, a six-mile pedestrian walkway that crosses the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, which spans the Hudson River and connects the towns of Hudson and Catskill.
The Skywalk Arts Festival was held in an unbelievably spectacular and tiny plot of land just off the Hudson River Skywalk. The Rip Van Winkle Bridge Authority Park is tiny but offers a mighty view of the bridge, the Hudson and the valley. Sweetening the pot during the arts festival was the painting, drawing, demonstrations and easy access from the parking lot.
And my thanks to the guys from the New York State Bridge Authority, who I chatted up as I was leaving. We had a great discussion about bridges and the Hudson Valley, and I thanked them on behalf of us all for keeping motorists safe on the spans. Thanks, guys!
And then came one of the most glorious, exhilarating and terrifying experiences of my life.
The Hunter Mountain Scenic Skyride repurposes a skiing chairlift as a catalyst for viewing the spectacular glory of the Catskill Mountains and Hudson Valley from a singular perspective. The views were colossal and intoxicating. My vertigo, however, kicked in big time. But once I surrendered to it and learned to enjoy the climbing, climbing, climbing of the trip up the mountain and the descent of the return trip, I was able to really appreciate the physicality of this journey up the side of a mountain.
Once on top, I hopped off the skyride and roamed a lovely greenspace with a viewing deck. A short trek on a footpath brought me to a compelling and intriguing Rip Van Winkle Monument that landed on my brain as a fusion of Greek mythology with the lost City of Atlantis.
Once I was safely back on solid ground, I headed to nearby Tannersville and stumbled upon the “Cruisin’ on the Mountaintop Antique & Classic Fall Car Show.” The designs of these automobiles offered yet another perspective on the Hudson Valley’s artistic spirit and fit in nicely with the vibrant storefront colors and murals that define downtown Tannersville, known as the “Painted Village in the Sky.”
Kaaterskill Falls awaited me next, offering more sweeping views and an opportunity for camaraderie with my fellow outdoor enthusiasts. A viewing platform marks the conclusion of a short walk from the parking lot. And for those looking for a heartier experience, parking can be found at the Mountain Top Historical Society, just a short walk from an old railroad station and path to the falls.
How majestic is Kaaterskill Falls? The highest cascading waterfall in New York State drops two tiers, over 260 feet, and has been a popular destination for centuries.
Where to stay in Greene County
I cannot say enough good things about Riedlbauer’s Resort.
The word that keeps coming to mind is “nestled.” Riedlbauer’s is tucked away in the wilds of the Great Northern Catskills of Greene County. The resort’s grounds offer serenity—with the lively exception of Nussy’s Bier Garten, that is. My fellow guests were beyond friendly and radiated a great family vibe, with kids running around just enjoying being kids on vacation.
The staff of this resort—the Nussbaumer family who have been the proprietors of Riedlbauer’s Resort since 1978—was A+++.
And how about the tidy rooms, generous portions of food, celebratory atmosphere, and woodsy Catskill Mountains vibe?
I could see clearly just how hard these folks worked and how that enthusiasm resonated in a Riedlbauer’s spirit that made me feel as though this resort was designed with one person in mind—me.
Thanks again, Great Northern Catskills of Greene County. We’re two for two on 2024 visits to your beautiful and welcoming corner of the world. See you again soon, I hope.
Experience the beauty and serenity of the Great Northern Catskills of Greene County with the help of Amtrak. Take Amtrak to the Hudson Station, in close proximity to Catskill and other areas. Don’t forget to use the See New York and Save 15% discount.
Pick up your reserved NYTRAIN Enterprise Rent-a-Car right at the Hudson Station. Car rentals can be returned at designated spots at the Hudson station or at an across the street parking lot. Click here to reserve your car or call the Hudson office today at 518-828-5492
